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The Renaissance

A perfect example of the harmonic blending of Renaissance painting and architecture is the church of Santa Maria di Campagna, which looks over the so-called Square of the Crusades, where in 1095 Pope Urban II proclaimed the First Crusade. Going along via Campagna, we find another imposing Renaissance church, San Sepolcro, built from a design by Alessio Tramello. Erected between 1513 and 1533 for the Olivetan monks, it was turned into a military hospital under Napoleon and only in 1903 did it resume its function as a place of worship.

Next to the church is the former convent of the Olivetan monks, with its two fine cloisters taken over by the Town Hospital. The church apparently takes its name from a local man who came back from a pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem and, in 938, founded a shrine on this site, which was later destroyed. The faÁade, with a Baroque portal, is divided by buttresses enhancing its vertical thrust. The interior space is vast, divided by four sets of columns supporting impressive pointed arches, and decorated throughout with chiaroscuro frescoes.

Going back towards Santa Maria di Campagna, we can see a long section of the sixteenth-century city walls, the mura farnesiane, which surrounded the entire city with its rampart. Following the walls up to Porta Borghetto, we arrive at the church of San Sisto, which can also be reached via the city centre, through Piazza Cittadella and vicolo Angilberga which ends in a magnificent pointed vault in brickwork. This remarkable example of Renaissance architecture dates from the times of the mpress Angilberga, wife of Ludovic the Pious, who in 874 founded the church and the annexed convent of Benedictine nuns, of which she became the abbess in 882. She died there and was buried in the church.

The Benedictine monks succeeded the nuns and began the construction of the present building towards the end of the fifteenth century. The present church, the first religious architectural project by Alessio Tramello, was built between 1499 and 1511. The faÁade, altered in the seventeenth century, has an ample courtyard with an open gallery in front. The interior, with three aisles, is a fine example of early Renaissance architecture and contains beautiful paintings by Procaccini, Pittoni, Palma Giovane, and the Campi brothers. On display above the high altar is a copy of Raffaello's masterpiece Madonna Sistina, which the maestro had painted expressly for the church of San Sisto in Piacenza. The original canvas was sold in 1754 by the Benedictine monks to August III, King of Poland and Elector of Saxony, for 10,000 pieces of gold, and is now the highlight of the Dresden museum. Of remarkable beauty are the choir-stalls in carved wood by Bartolomeo Spinello of Busseto and Giampiero Panbianchi of Colorno (1514). The backs of the stalls depict floral, musical, architectonic and perspective motifs, together with almost metaphysical sketches of the towns of Piacenza, Ferrara and Rome.

san Sisto
Chiesa di S. Sisto

Piazza Cittadella (citadel, stronghold) is just a short walk away from San Sisto. It is dominated by the Palazzo Farnese and the nearby remains of a small fortress erected in 1373 by Gian Galeazzo Visconti of Milan, then lord of Piacenza, to protect the town and its neighbouring territories from the attacks of rival feudal lords. Of the original Visconti fortress only the donjon, two corner towers and some curtain walls are left. It was from this building that the first Farnese duke Pier Luigi began to rule Piacenza only to die a few years later, in 1547, the victim of a plot of city nobles who killed him and threw his body in the moat below.

mole farnesiana
Mole farnesiana 

Palazzo Farnese, which nowadays houses the Town Museums, started its life in the mid-sixteenth century, when Pier Luigi's son, Ottavio, and his wife Margherita decided to build their palace and had the Visconti stronghold pulled down almost completely. Work started in 1558 on a design by Francesco Paciotti of Urbino and from 1564 continued under the supervision of Jacopo Barozzi, known as Vignola, who had been appointed official architect to the House of Farnese. But the palace was never completed and what is left is only half of the original plan. It is a huge, unfinished building on three floors and a vast basement. Two elegant loggias on the ground and the first floor, with corner niches and exedrae, look on to the inner courtyard. Of outstanding beauty and value is the seventeenth-century wrought-iron gate with the Farnese lilies and the ducal crown, the work of expert local artisans. The gate opens onto the grand staircase leading to the throne room. The octagonal ducal chapel decorated with stuccoes is the work of Bernardino Panizzari of Piacenza, known as Caramosino: it has an elegant spherical vault and a small presbytery overlooked by two balconies. Of great interest is the spiral staircase going from the basement to the look-out tower on the roof. The aery volumes of the palace, brought to new life by careful restoration work, create quite an impression on the beholder.

As for the furnishings, after Charles of Bourbon became King of Naples in 1731, taking with him pictures, tapestries and furniture, the palace began its rapid and inexorable decline. Used as a barracks, and as emergency accommodation for evacuees during the war, it fell into a state of increasing neglect and deterioration. It was only as late as 1965 that the difficult and expensive restoration work began.
Amongst other Renaissance palaces mention should be made of Palazzo Barattieri of San Pietro in Cerro at 70, via Taverna, dating from the end of the fifteenth century, but almost entirely rebuilt in 1795 on a design by the architect Lotario Tomba. It has a double courtyard, with coat of arms and inscriptions, and the interior decoration is characterized by the recurring theme of fruit, particularly citrus. At 37, via Taverna is Palazzo Scotti of Fombio, now housing the Collegio Morigi and the Natural History Museum. Built in the first half of the fifteenth century and altered throughout the centuries, it has a brickwork faÁade with friezes, a classical portal in Candoglia marble (1497) and corner figures supporting the coat of arms. Of interest is also the Palazzo Rossi Trevani in via Scalabrini, although extensively altered.

Amongst the sixteenth-century churches which have suffered a number of alterations is that of Sant'Agostino, at the corner between Stradone Farnese and via Giordani. This imposing church, closed to the public, has a neoclassical faÁade in granite blocks by Camillo Morigi (1785-93). The interior, of astonishing grandeur and harmonic proportions, consists of five aisles separated by columns and pillars, the only such plan in the whole town. Fragments of frescoes by Malosso can be seen on the transept walls. Closed to the public for about two centuries, the church has only recently returned to its original splendour. Two more religious buildings deserve a mention: the church of San Vincenzo (1612), founded in 1100, but entirely rebuilt in 1510 by the Theatines, who took it over (closed to the public, it contains paintings by Galluzzi, pupil of the Bibiena brothers, De Longe and Draghi, and a fine Baroque altar); and the church of San Pietro, founded before the year 1000, repeatedly destroyed and given to the Jesuits who rebuilt it in 1587 (the faÁade is a 1935 reconstruction in the original style). It contains a beautiful Baroque altar which was once in the Cathedral. Close by is the Palazzo del Collegio dei Gesuiti, completed around 1593 and incorporating part of the church. Its right wing houses the Passerini-Landi library, which has been operating since 1774 and contains, amongst other valuable works, the earliest dated codex of the Divine Comedy (1336), copied by an amanuensis, and Angilberga's Psaltery on parchment.

Santa Maria di Campagna

Santa Maria di Campagna, the masterpiece of architect Alessio Tramello of Piacenza, is a gem of Renaissance architecture. It was built between 1522 and 1528 as a shrine for the polychrome wooden statue of a real-size, miraculous Madonna della Campagnola, which was previously housed in a humble chapel. In ancient times, this was probably the site of a pozzo (pit), an underground tomb of Christian martyrs who had died during the persecutions by the emperor Diocletian, at the end of the second century.
The building, characterized by a majestic octagonal lantern, originally had a Greek cross plan as favoured by Bramante and his followers, but in 1791 a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, with valuable paintings by the Campi brothers, was pulled down and the presbytery extended, so that the original plan changed into an upside down Latin cross.*

cupola
S. Maria d Campagna - cupola

 

The faÁade is geometrically neat, divided on two superimposed floors; its plain shapes contrast with the lavish pictorial decoration of the interior, which covers columns, pilaster strips, ribbing and beams alike. Of outstanding quality is the cycle of frescoes by the painter Giovanni Antonio Sacchi, known as Pordenone, who decorated the dome and the first two chapel on the left-hand side with some of his most significant works (1529-31), recently restored to their original splendour under the patronage of the Town Council.
The frescoes in the chapels depict St.Augustine, The Marriage of St. Catherine, The Adoration of the Magi, The Adoration of the Shepherds, and The Flight into Egypt. Those on the dome above the lantern represent The Eternal Father, prophets, sybils and biblical characters; mythological scenes are depicted along the base of the ribs, and eight apostles on the pilaster strips dividing the gallery.  By Pordenone is also the host of rosy-faced putti and little Hercules with their hair blowing in the wind, who seem to play a merry ring-a-ring o'roses on the ribs and the listel of the lantern, part of a repertory of pictorial images which, alongside Correggio's legacy, was to be employed by most Emilian and Lombard painters of the next generation.

The lower part of the dome barrel was completed by Gervasio Gatti, called Sojaro. The church contains works by Galeazzo, Antonio, Giulio and Bernardino Campi, Camillo Procaccini, Guercino, Malosso, De Longe, F. Bibbiena, Stern and Avanzini; a Baroque wooden group inspired by The Lamentation before Christ Crucified by Jan Hermann Geernaerth (1757); a statue attributed to Mochi representing Ranuccio Farnese on his knees; and the organ choir.**

* Next to the church is the former convent of the Franciscan monks (1555), built on the remains of the ancient church of Santa Vittoria.
** Behind the altar, two tombstones commemorate the burial of Isabella Farnese and that of the heart of her brother Francesco, who was buried in Parma.

palazzo landi
Palazzo Landi  - portale

The Palaces of the Aristocracy

An early Renaissance palace of oustanding beauty is Palazzo Landi, at the corner with via Giordano Bruno. This fifteenth-century building, now housing the court of justice, was once the residence of the Farnese family, who confiscated the palace in retaliation against the owners known to have taken part in the plot against the first duke Pier Luigi. The Emperor Charles V was another famous resident. The Lombard master masons A. de Fondutis and G. Battagio worked on the faÁade, the former having already worked with Bramante on the church of San Satiro in Milan. Of great interest is the terracotta frieze on the elevations, ornate with sirens, arms and medallions, and the marble doorway, decorated with statues of warriors, putti with musical instruments, floral motives, allegories of Concord, Harmony, Music, Poetry and Painting, and a scene representing the fight between Hercules and Antaeus.

 

 
 
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