Our tour
of medieval Piacenza begins in Piazza Cavalli, which
was built on the site of the ancient Roman military
camp. Evidence for this is the inscription on stone "haec
est ara Bellonae" ("this is Bellona's altar")
found in 1281 while the foundations of the Town Hall,
better known as Palazzo Gotico, were being dug. In
Latin mythology, Bellona was wife and sister to Mars,
the god of war.
The imposing structure of the Palazzo Gotico thus dominates the original town
centre. Its construction started in 1281 and was promoted by Alberto Scoto, merchant
leader and Ghibelline* lord of the city, the descendant of a Scottish knight
who had come to Piacenza in the retinue of Charlemagne.
It was designed by local masons, perhaps with the
help of workmen from Como. To make space for it, a
convent and a church dedicated to St. Bartholomew were
pulled down.
Built in ogival Lombard style, with
cornices decorated with little arches, swallow-tailed
Ghibelline crenellations, a central bell turret, and
two side turrets, it is a fine example of medieval
secular architecture, whose neat structure rivals many
similar buildings in the north for beauty and quality
of proportions.
The upper part, in Romanesque style,
with round arches housing slender three-light windows,
rests on a marble Gothic loggia of pointed arches.
The contrast between the pink marble of the lower part
and the geometric brickwork of the large upper windows
creates an effect of astonishing elegance. Special
attention should be given to the rose window and the
weathered cornice on the narrow elevation with three
arcades, suggesting the possible influence of religious
architecture. To be noted here is the lower extension
of the building, which remained unfinished. The twelfth-century
statue of Madonna with Child, which used to be housed
in a niche of the faÁade, is now kept in the Museo
Civico (the town museum) and has been replaced by a
copy. The great hall of the palace (40 X 16 metres),
with its timber ceiling and pictorial decorations,
has been restored and is now used for functions.
Close by is the church
of San Francesco. It was built in Lombard Gothic
style with a brick faÁade, between 1278 and 1363,
on the initiative of the Ghibelline lord Ubertino
Landi. The Friars Minor, who wished to add onto
the early small church, designed the original plan,
but at the end of the eighteenth century the building
was turned into a hospital and a warehouse. After
Napoleon's exile, the church was returned to the
Friars and it was there that the annexation of
Piacenza to the kingdom of Piedmont was proclaimed
in 1848.
Repeatedly restored, it recalls in its features the church of San Francesco
in Bologna, in which the influence of Cistercian monastic architecture
from Burgundy is strongly felt, for instance in the plan of the apse and
its radiating chapels. The faÁade has two buttresses, a rose window, pinnacle
and spires, as well as a fifteenth-century central portal, two side doorways
of a later date, and imposing flying buttresses on the sides. The cloister
is on the right-hand side, but only a portico is left.
The interior is decorated with tombstones of illustrious people, paintings,
sculptures and remains of frescoes dating from the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries. |

Chiesa di San Francesco
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The relief on the lunette of the portal,
showing St. Francis receiving the stigmata (c.1480),
is worthy of note.
From Piazza Cavalli, through via XX Settembre, we reach Piazza del Duomo (the
Cathedral square), the other focus of city life in Piacenza. Its present plan
dates back to the mid-sixteenth century, to the times of Pope Paul III Farnese,
who wished to revamp the town before giving it to his son Pier Luigi as part
of the dukedom of Parma and Piacenza. The Cathedral looks over the square (see
File 1). From Piazza Duomo, through via Chiapponi, we reach via Scalabrini
and the church of Sant'Antonino, one of the most significant examples of religious
architecture for its complex iconography. It began its life as an Early Christian
church, built between 350 and 375 by San Vittore, first bishop of Piacenza,
and was consecrated to Sant'Antonino, the town patron saint, a Roman soldier
who suffered martyrdom near Travo and whose relics are kept in an urn under
the high altar. It was the town Cathedral from the fourth to the ninth century.

Chiesa di S. Antonino
|
Almost entirely destroyed
during the Germanic invasions, it was rebuilt in
1014 and altered several times after then. In 1450,
an atrium was added to the left transept, the so
called "Gate of Paradise", decorated
with a rose window above a slender pointed arch
and pinnacles. Inside the atrium, a memorial stone
commemorates the meeting held here, in 1183, between
the envoys of the Lombard League and the Emperor
Barbarossa to discuss the preliminaries to the
Peace of Constance.
The church contains good quality paintings, with several frescoes by Camillo
Gavasetti (1622) in the presbytery. The cloister was built in 1483, on
one side of the church. The museum contains polyptychs, illuminated antiphonaries
from the end of the fifteenth century, silverware, chalices, reliquaries,
and a precious manuscript by Lotarius, king of Lorraine, dated 840.
From the Cathedral square, through via Legnano, we reach the church of
San Savino, one of the finest examples of northern Romanesque architecture
predating Lanfranco. The present faÁade and the entrance portico date from
the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. |
Built in 903 by bishop Everardo and
rebuilt around the year 1000 by the Benedictine bishop
Sigifredo after the devastations caused by the Hungarian
invasions, the church was consecrated in 1107 by bishop
Aldus. The remains of San Savino, second bishop of
Piacenza (d. 420), are kept in the crypt.
Restoration work carried out at the beginning of the century unveiled two precious
twelfth-century polychrome mosaics.
The first one in the presbytery represents Time forever spinning, with men
trying in vain to hold it, whereas it can only be put to good use by practising
the four Cardinal Virtues of Prudence (chess players checking their moves),
Fortitude (knights in arms), Temperance (a man refraining from drinking), and
Justice (a king abiding by the law). The second one in the crypt consists of
medallions depicting the months and signs of the Zodiac, as well as man's labours
appropriate to the time of year, on a background of a rough sea. The Lombard
Romanesque interior is decorated with beautiful anthropomorphic capitals ornate
with foliage, tendrils, human and monstrous creatures animated with demoniacal
vitality. On display above the altar is a beautiful twelfth-century wooden
Crucifix by an unknown artist.
We continue our tour of Romanesque Piacenza by tracing our steps back through
via Roma, towards via Borghetto. From via Borghetto, past the Bank of Italy
building, we reach the church of Sant'Eufemia. The earliest core of the building
was begun before the year 1000, but only after 1100 did the church acquire
its final layout under bishop Aldus. The slender arcades carried on columns
decorated with precious Romanesque capitals date from that period. The predominantly
brick interior has three aisles with the end apses divided by pilasters. Tradition
has it that bishop Aldus wished to be buried in the church, but his remains
have never been found, unlike those of Santa Eufemia, which were brought to
light in 1091.
The church of Santa Brigida overlooks Piazza Borgo. It was begun in the ninth
century, rebuilt in the thirteenth century and extensively restored in the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when the faÁade was entirely redone.
The bell tower was built only a few decades ago. The Romanesque interior underwent
alterations in Gothic style which have modified the original order
From the Knights Templars to the Dominican Friars
The church of San Giovanni in Canale,
in via Beverora, was founded in 1220 by the Dominican
Friars, who built the church next to a stream on a
site owned by the Knights Templars, whose cloister
was destroyed in the Second World War. Around the mid-sixteenth
century, three bays were added towards the faÁade and
the choir was extended. The building was repeatedly
restored but still retains several medieval features.
| The interior has a
Gothic plan, with three aisles and a timber ceiling
restored several decades ago. The interior, built
mainly in bricks and white cut stones, is bare
and majestic. It houses several burial monuments,
among which the fifteenth-century tomb of the Scotti
family, a sculpured sarcophagus in Verona stone,
and the fourteenth-century Gothic trefoil chapel
belonging to the Arcelli family. On the right-hand
side of the church, near the entrance to the ancient
cloister, are the fourteenth-century tomb of the
Guadagnabene family, affluent merchant-bankers,
and that of the famous surgeon Guglielmo da Saliceto,
dating from the early sixteenth century. There
is also a sixteenth-century painted tomb, unique
in the whole town. The neo-classical Rosary chapel
houses The Ascent to Calvary by Gaspare Landi,
a painter from Piacenza who succeeded Canova as
director of the Academy of St. Luke in Rome.
Caption: San Giovanni in Canale was also the
seat of the Tribunal of the Inquisition and
many "witches" died at the
stake here. |

Duomo
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